September « 2013 « AZ Fine Time Blog

For our second installment of reviews on the Grand Seiko 18 gold Snowflakes, we introduce the yellow gold variation, SBGA090. As I mentioned in yesterdays review of the white gold SBGA089, this piece is a limited production model that pays tribute to one of the best selling styles of Grand Seiko, the SBGA011.

The dial for the SBGA090 is just like the dial found on SBGA011, replicating the snowfall in Suwa, where Seiko manufactures their Spring Drive movements. This 18k yellow gold model adds yellow gold to the hands and indexes, as well as the SEIKO and GS logo, and the 72 hour power reserve indicator. The hands and indexes are diamond cut at multiple angles, brought to razor sharp edges and finished in the Zaratsu katana blade polishing technique making light reflect at every angle. These little glimmers of light make for easy legibility in low light settings.

The case width is only 39mm (which is slightly smaller than the SBGA011 at 41mm). The case is also finished in the blade polishing technique, which is only entrusted in a small amount of craftsmen. This hand applied finish is done by pressing the case gently against a rotating tin plate over and over again at specific angles until the case has reached its mirror like finish. It takes tremendous experience and skill to achieve this distortion free finish.

In our previous review of the white gold we discussed Yoshikazu Akahane and the near 30 years it took him to develope Seiko’s Spring Drive movement. Today, the discussion lies more in how it actually works. First, Spring Drive is solely powered by the mainspring, as with any other mechanical watch. The power from the mainspring (Seiko’s proprietary alloy Spron 510), drives not only the movement of the hands, but also a very small amount is used to propel a magnetic rotor. This provides the electricity to power what Seiko calls a Tri-Synchro Regulator.

The Tri-Synchro Regulator replaces the traditional escapement found in mechanical watches. Instead of the balance wheel bouncing back and forth on a sensitive hairspring, Seiko has a glide wheel that rotates in one direction. This is what allows the unbelievably smooth gliding motion of Spring Drives second hand as well as relieving tremendous stress on the movement. The electricity from the magnetic rotor powers an integrated circuit and high quality quartz crystal. The frequency from the crystal is transferred through the IC tells an electromagnetic brake to allow the glide wheel 8 rotations per second. This is what allows for the quartz like precision in a mechanically powered watch.

For the 18k Special Edition Snowflakes, the quartz crystal utilized is very unique. After extensive testing and aging, only a small amount of crystals are qualified to go into the special 9R15 movement utilized. These crystals give the 9R15 an astonishing +/- 10 second a month accuracy rating. This is symbolized in the 18k gold medallion on the rotor. Spring Drive already has the highest accuracy rating for a spring powered watch, and apparently, only Seiko can out do themselves.

Only one of each color (white, yellow and pink gold) came to the US market, and are exclusively sold at AZFT. The SBGA090 is $18,000 MSRP. If you have any questions, please call us at 1-800-486-3996 or submit an inquiry through AZFineTime.com.

Thanks for reading!

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As a special tribute to one of the most popular Grand Seiko’s in the line up today, the SBGA011 “Snowflake”, Seiko has introduced a series of limited production models in 3 shades of 18k gold. Available in white, yellow or pink gold, with the very special 9R15 caliber, only one of each color came to the US market and can exclusively be found at AZ Fine Time. Today we bring you the white gold, SBGA089.

The Snowflake was made to pay tribute to the winters of Spring Drive’s hometown and birth place, the Suwa Nagano region of Japan. In Suwa, the Shinshu Watch Studio manufactures and assembles Spring Drive movements. The winters in this central region of Japan produce light and airy snowfall, which creates snow drifts on the ground and mountainous area. The dial of the snowflake is made to mimic this, but still retain the subtlety and beauty you find in Grand Seiko. From a distance the dial appears to be a plain white, but up close, the intricate details can easily be seen.

The concept of Spring Drive conceived in 1977 by a young engineer at Seiko’s Suwa plant, Yoshikazu Akahane. The thought of a perfect watch, having the craftsmanship and details of a fine mechanical but the accuracy of the best quartz, was something Akahane became devoted to. After 28 years, 600 prototypes and 230 patents, Seiko’s Spring Drive was finally introduced to the market in 2005.

The Spring Drive caliber found in this special Snowflake is the rarely seen 9R15. This caliber is only used in limited edition/production type models as its Tri-Synchro Regulator utilizes a specially selected quartz crystal that endures vigorous testing and aging to ensure it is of the finest quality. These rare quartz crystals are what provide the 9R15 with an even higher accuracy compared to the 9R65 found in most Grand Seiko’s. The 9R15 is rated to only +/- 10 seconds a month deviation as compared to the 9R65’s +/- 15 seconds a month (equivalent to 1 second a day). As you will find with the 9R65, the actual accuracy of the 9R15 is likely to be much better than its rating. This is the 1st and only 9R15 caliber to come to the US market. This movement, which is manufactured completely in house, has a 72 hour power reserve and an 18k gold medallion on the rotor to express its uniqueness.

The SBGA089’s 18k white gold case is slightly smaller than the SBGA011’s case at only 39mm wide but the same thickness of 12.5mm. The finish is brushed at the lugs but mostly composed of the impeccable Zaratsu “Blade” polishing technique, giving the mirror like finish that is truly stunning in person. The hands and indexes also utilize this polishing technique on their multifaceted, diamond cut design, which gives a brilliant sparkle from every angle.

As I mentioned before, only 1 of each color of gold came to the US market and are exclusively sold at AZ Fine Time. The MSRP for the white gold SBGA089 is $19,000. If you have any questions, please feel free to call us at 1-800-486-3996 or submit an inquiry through our site. Stay tuned for our reviews on the yellow gold SBGA090 and pink gold SBGA092.