Last year, for Seiko’s 130th Anniversary, they released a near exact replica of the original 1960 debut Grand Seiko. This retro remake was introduced in 3 different variations (steel, 18kt yellow gold and platinum). I originally wrote about the 18kt yellow gold SBGW040 HERE. While all 3 are absolutely gorgeous, the gold and platinum pieces were extremely collectible with only 130 produced of each and the steel being limited to 1,300. The one that shined most to me, was the platinum.
The SBGW039 Platinum 130th Anniversary model bares vast resemblance to the original release from 1960. While the original was a gold filled case with a reddish/brown strap (as the gold SBGW040 has), the platinum has the same overall look. One of my favorite aspects of the 130 SBGW039 is the modern “twist” Seiko has incorporated to the remake.
The watch is near the same case size at 35.8mm. 950 Platinum is a beautiful way to honor and commemorate the original and, of course, make it much more valuable. The finish of the platinum is Zaratsu polishing, an old Japanese art-form used for giving a mirror like finish to Katana blades. The finish is stunning and gives off a perfect reflection. There is no brushed finish on the watch, which gives it a very classy and elegant look. All hands and indexes are also Zaratsu polished, adding more character and legibility to the watch.
The domed crystal of the watch looks the same as the original, but uses Seiko’s latest technology. Their proprietary High Definition Sapphire Crystal is dual anti reflective coated but has no blue glare and is also incredibly clear. Manufacturing the thick piece of crystal and then modifying it to its perfect shape can be a very difficult task. Needless to say, it was very well executed.
The black strap on the SBGW039 is very high quality. It is a high gloss crocodile that appears to be from the center belly or tail due to its semi-uniform scale size. It melds with the high polish case finish beautifully and only adds to the “high-end” feel.
The movement is the new 9S64 manual wind with 72 hour power reserve. Tested to Seiko’s GS Standard, every piece is guaranteed to perform within a +5/-3 deviation rate. As you may know, this is above Swiss Certified Chronometer standard and also includes more tests. It is finished with “Tokyo Striping” and blue screws. The movement also utilizes the in house spring alloys labeled Spron. The Spron 510 for the mainspring gives the piece a 72 hour power reserve with only one barrel. The Spron 610 used for the hairspring boasts longer durability, elasticity, and anti-magnetism than the other leading materials. MEMS (Micro Electrical Mechanical System) technology is used to make stronger, smoother and more precise escapement gears and and anchors. This also allows them to make these parts hollow, which lightens the weight and alleviates inertia. This puts less tension on the hairspring and improves the longevity of all the parts.
Overall, the SBGW039 is an incredible timepiece. Very few came to the US and we were fortunate enough to get our hands on most. I foresee this piece gaining value tremendously over time. Not only because of the value of platinum, but also because of the very limited quantity produced. Grand Seiko is still relatively new to the US market, but collectors are becoming more aware of its presence every day. I have seen many avid Patek and Rolex collectors switch to Grand Seiko because of its superior quality. Grand Seiko is not only a brand of beauty, but a brand of accuracy. The biggest goal in the watch industry is accuracy. Seiko holds the crown in every sense.
I hope you enjoyed. Please click below to see the full set of picture.
Joe @ AZFT